Honeymoon Ideas

A Cappadocia Balloon Honeymoon: How to Do Turkey Right

· · 6 min read

I have done Cappadocia twice, once on my own honeymoon and once with a group of friends, and the sunrise balloon ride is on a small list of experiences I keep recommending to almost every couple who books a Europe-adjacent honeymoon. The trip is more involved in planning than the photos suggest. The photos make it look effortless. The reality is the balloon ride is weather-dependent (about a third of flights get postponed in any given week), the cave hotels in Goreme book out four to six months ahead in the peak balloon-season months, and the e-Visa rules for Indians have been changing for the last few years. Done right, though, it is one of the most photogenic honeymoon trips I can think of.

The visa. Indians need a Turkey e-Visa. Apply through the official Turkish government e-Visa portal, around sixty US dollars (five thousand three hundred rupees). Apply at least forty-eight hours before travel. The current requirement (which has been the case for the last two years) is that you need to have a valid US, UK, Schengen, or Irish visa or residence permit to apply for the e-Visa online; for those without one, a sticker visa from the Turkish consulate in India is required, which takes longer. Check the current rules close to your travel month because the policy has been adjusting.

The route. Bangalore to Istanbul (three nights), a one-hour domestic flight to Kayseri or Nevsehir (both serve Cappadocia, three nights), back via Istanbul. Turkish Airlines has the most direct Bangalore-Istanbul route via Mumbai or Delhi, eleven to twelve hours including the stop.

Istanbul for three nights. Stay in Sultanahmet, the old city, walking distance to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi. The alternative, Beyoglu, is the more modern and walkable area with restaurants and bars. For first-time visitors, Sultanahmet is the easier base. Boutique hotels run eight to fifteen thousand a night.

The first day in Istanbul is for arriving and settling. An evening walk through Sultanahmet, dinner at a small restaurant near the Hippodrome. The second day is the heavy day, Hagia Sophia (book online to skip the queue), the Blue Mosque (free entry but observe the dress code, scarves provided for women if needed), Topkapi Palace (the Ottoman royal residence), Basilica Cistern (the underground Byzantine water cistern with the rows of columns half-submerged in water, atmospheric is the only word). Take a long lunch in between because the morning will be heavy on the feet. Evening dinner cruise on the Bosphorus or a rooftop restaurant in Galata.

Day three was the Grand Bazaar in the morning (covered market with four thousand shops, the Turkish carpets and ceramic lamps are the famous buys, bargaining is expected and at least forty per cent off the first asking price is normal), lunch at a small lokanta (Turkish home-style restaurant), afternoon at Galata Tower and a walk through Beyoglu. Evening at a traditional whirling dervish ceremony at the Hodjapasha Cultural Centre, around eighteen hundred rupees, an actual religious Sufi performance that runs for an hour, contemplative rather than touristy.

Then the flight to Cappadocia. Fly Istanbul to Kayseri or Nevsehir, one hour. Pre-arrange the airport transfer through your hotel, about one hour drive to Goreme.

Where to stay in Cappadocia is the most important hotel decision of the trip. Goreme is the central village. Stay at a cave hotel, where the rooms are carved into the volcanic tuff hillsides. Eight to twenty-five thousand a night. The cave room is the experience. Do not stay at a regular hotel and miss it. Sultan Cave Suites and Argos in Cappadocia are the famous ones. There are smaller cave hotels for ten to fifteen thousand that offer the same basic experience.

Day four in Cappadocia is the arrival, lunch, settle. Afternoon walk through Goreme village, sunset at Sunset Point overlooking the fairy chimneys (the unique rock formations created by ancient volcanic activity, the landscape's distinctive feature). Important. The balloon company will call or WhatsApp you in the evening to confirm the next morning's flight or postpone. Be flexible. About thirty per cent of scheduled flights get postponed for wind conditions.

Day five, the balloon ride. Pickup at four-thirty in the morning. One-hour flight at sunrise over the fairy chimneys, with about a hundred other balloons in the air simultaneously, the most photographed sunrise on the planet. Champagne breakfast on landing. About eighteen to twenty-five thousand per person. A few rules I now give every client. Book two to three weeks ahead through a properly vetted company (the safety standards vary, do not pick the cheapest). Schedule the balloon for day five of a three-day Cappadocia stay so day six is your weather backup. The flight cancellations are usually communicated the previous evening or in the morning. If it is cancelled, the company will rebook you for the next day at no extra cost.

The rest of day five is the nap that you genuinely need after the four-thirty start, then a late lunch, then an afternoon at the Goreme Open Air Museum (the rock-cut Byzantine churches with original frescoes, UNESCO site).

Day six is the Red and Rose Valley sunset hike (two to three hours, gentle, mostly flat with some short climbs to viewpoints), or an ATV tour through the valleys, or a Turkish bath (hamam) experience at one of the cave-style hamams in Goreme. Evening dinner at a cave restaurant in Goreme. We did Seten Restaurant which was excellent.

Day seven is the last morning, transfer back to Kayseri airport, fly to Istanbul, evening flight to Bangalore.

Food. Turkish food is one of the world's great cuisines. Kebabs (Adana, Iskender, Doner, each region has its own style). Mezze as small plates to start a meal (hummus, baba ganoush, dolma, sigara borek). Manti (Turkish dumplings with yoghurt and chilli butter). Pide (Turkish flatbread pizza). Baklava and lokum (Turkish delight) for dessert. Strong Turkish coffee and apple tea for drinks. Vegetarian options are plenty in Turkish cuisine because the vegetable tradition is strong, look for "vejetaryen" menus, pure Jain is harder.

Cost. Per couple, seven nights, mid-range hotels with the cave hotel in Cappadocia, all flights including the domestic Istanbul-Kayseri, all activities including the balloon, all meals, return from Bangalore, comes in around three lakhs.

When to go. April-June and September-October are the sweet spots, warm days, cool nights, clear skies for the balloons. July-August is hot but the balloons fly daily. November-March is colder, with the occasional snow in Cappadocia which makes the photos magical but the balloon flights are weather-cancelled more often.

Cappadocia is one of those once-in-a-lifetime visual experiences. The balloon ride is the headline. The cave hotel stay is the body of the trip. The valley walks and the sunsets and the apple tea on the small terrace overlooking the fairy chimneys at six in the evening are what make it stay with you. Combined with Istanbul, you get a city plus experience honeymoon at a better cost than most of Europe.

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